Tuesday, May 31, 2022

The Day of the Tigers; Bandhavgarh Diary!









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“Never consider the luck will be on your side but on the day when you know the luck is on your side, then make most of it” ... Me.

Well, above words are by me only & this is what I felt after the day when I was going through my clicks (and there were many) post full day safari at Bandhavgarh National Park & was counting the tiger sightings we had! I have seen enough tigers in the wilds (though it’s never enough actually) & I know the die-hard wild lifers’ (read as, not the wildlife photographers but those who has understood wildlife & their number is very few actually) will say that, tiger alone is not forest & one has to see the wilderness in totality & every specie in the forest counts & all such stuff!  And I also love to be just in any forest, tiger or no tiger is also true, yet when you see those yellow black stripes walking towards you (or even away from you) in the greens of the forests the something different happens. You can feel the adrenaline rush in your blood & its not just you getting exited by the sight of a tiger but the entire forest’s atmosphere suddenly changes, sometimes its alarm calls of deer with languor & sometimes it becomes total silent, & all eyes focused on the tiger, such is the power the animal has got in it! And though I have travelled many forests, I am still human to get transfixed by the tiger effect on me & I am glad for it, let me confess! And when in one day you get to see 21 tigers including cubs (yes you have read right figure, 21 tigers) then you can say there can’t be more lucky day for a wildlife lover or any human being, such was mine in Bandhavgarh forest!

My, this sharing is about these tiger sightings & what I learnt out of them & not just about glorifying the tiger show, however elated I may have been, as we all know how difficult (as well of luck) even sighting one tiger can be & when you get to see 21 tigers in a day & if you are not going to learn anything out of it then you indeed are a fool, right? First of all, let me tell you I was on a full day safari which means you need not have to get out of the park during noon & that gives you some fourteen odd hours in the park in an open gipsy & do mind, in mid-summer of central India, it’s not a pleasant job unless you are die hard wild lifer as well it’s a costly affair (we were sharing though) as the charges which are nearly ten times more than the normal safari! But that gives you chance to move across all the zone for e.g., in Bandhavgarh there are three zones with separate entry gates i.e., Tala, Magadhi & Khatouli which all are accessible to you in a full day safari & that’s an advantage to locate the tiger sightings! But with all the added hours as well accessibility yet its nearly 800 plus sq. km area to cover in aday & there are some forty plus tigers which can be anywhere & the thing you need to have along with luck is, patience as well some logic & knowledge of the forests!

We started at 5.15 am from tala gate to enter & for the first two hours there was nothing, no movement & to add on our frustration the sky started getting full with dark clouds & weather suddenly become cold. This was a bad sign for tiger sighting as the cold makes the tigers at comfort wherever they are i.e., not feeling the need of getting in the open or to waterholes, yet when we crossed the zone & enter in Magdhi zone we could see Gipsys’ aligned around a huge grassland & that means tiger! So, were there a tigress Spotty & her three sub adult cubs, playing hide & seek with the watchers in the grass & it’s a wonderful sight! The sun was yet behind the clouds & it was nearly now four hours for us in the park when another gipsy passed by & told us about the sighting, they had of a young tigress kajari & her tiny cubs of age of three months, in the same zone but at other side of the grassland we were.

I have not seen of-late such young cubs of tiger & we decided to have a shot at Kajari tigress to try our luck as with such small cubs to raise the tigress is very careful & though here movements are restricted in a comparatively small area yet she prefers to keep away from any living species which is perfectly understandable! When we reached the spot, it was 10.30 am & still the sky was clouded & weather was cool & there too few vehicles were waiting to have glimpse of the tigress. One of the guides told us the tigress is in the area & has been resting in thickset along a nallah which flows parallel to road we were standing on as well there was equal chance of the cubs along somewhere near only! This news made our mood a shade better & we decided to wait at the spot & an hour passed in the wait. Good thing about waiting for the tiger is, you can see lot many things happening around during the wait, like there was an Indian Pitta (Navrang bird) pair feeding under shadow of a tendu tree & I could click some good shots of them as well the best entertainment comes from the languor (monkeys) as they are continuously doing something & plays an important role in warning about the tiger’s presence because of their sharp sight from the trees! Now its past 10.30 am & most gipsys’ departed as their timing was 11 am to get out of the park for morning safari, so now only two gipsys left, of full day safari!  The wait was on & the other gipsy also moved away to check other location (for tiger of course), yet relying on the info about presence of the tigress, we decided to wait there only. It was 12 pm now & fortunately the cloud cover has been gone & sun was at its peak & we saw a male spotted deer advancing cautiously towards the nallah for drinking water exactly where the tigress was resting in the shadows of a jamun tree. This was a boon as the deer was going to disturb the tigress & she will wakeup & give us a show is what we thought & waited, though the deer couldn’t see the tigress but it definitely has smelled her & was very nervous which we could see (and understand too). In what seems to be a slow-motion movie mode, the deer was advancing towards the water body & at some 30 ft distance from the jamun tree suddenly it saw the tigress & gave an alarm call which awakened the tigress & she came out of the bushes & the deer ran away while we were all up with our cameras! Slowly the kajri tigress came in open with her three tiny cubs running behind her which she was taking to a cave across the road where we were standing because with three cubs running behind you its impossible for the tigress to hunt or kill & it was necessary for her to put them at a safe place & such way, we got to see the best caring mom with her cubs along in the wilds!

The excitement has washed away all our frustration & fatigue of seven hours of moving in gipsy & we decided to check Khatouli zone where there were reports of sighting of a family of six tigers with female named Ra tigress & Bajarang male tiger. And to here also the family was resting in grass patch which made the sight impossible yet we decided to wait. This place was on the bank of a small river & some 100 meters on upstream there was a bridge on a state highway & from the place we were standing we could see the cars on the high way & suddenly the male tiger appeared from the grass & started drinking water & gave us a curious glance & slept with his back towards us. One hour more passed & it was now 3 pm & again our luck shined & a huge male Indian gaur came towards the direction of the tiger grazing on the green grass. Rest of the tiger family was still hidden on the bushes along the bank while the tiger was sleeping & slowly the huge gaur walked past the tiger & entered in to the area where cubs & female were sleeping & all of them came out at the approach of the gaur & one by one settled around the male tiger! The cubs started jumping around while the tiger couple preferred to slept & what a wonderful sight it was, in a way such sightings are hope for entire wildlife, is what I thought to myself! After this one mope drama happened when one of the cubs hardly of six months & the size of a big Labrador dog decided to charge on the gaur but that episode I will cover in my next sharing!

When we started to check other parts of the forest in Khatoli zone & turned away from this family on a turn suddenly our driver applied breaks & shouted, “sir, look, a tiger on road’ & to our surprise, some 100 meters ahead one sub adult male tiger was standing right in the middle of the road with deer alarm calls on! Sighting our gipsy, the cub entered in the bushes along the road & waited there panting as we could see its tired & on hunt. The guide told us that it is one of the three litters of a tigress named tara & she has left them for another male & these cubs are of two years & are on their own to survive. Looking at the empty stomach & panting face of the cub I could guess it’s hunger & exhaustion & felt pity as they the cub was not of proper age to hunt on its own yet they have no one to feed as he is tiger & that’s the curse of being a tiger, right?  

Leaving the cub on its own to hunt we headed for a water hole & saw a gipsy (the other full day one) with cameras directed towards the water hole, a clear sign of who is in the water hole! A huge male tiger with just its head out of water, was relaxing in the pool which was in a 30 feet deep valley. The guide told us there was a kill nearby by the tiger named Chota Bheem & that’s why it was cooling in the water post meal. As the tigers eat raw meat, that generates extreme heat in their body & on top of it the May heat outside, all this makes them a must to take solace in the nearest water body & in such condition they can sit in the water for hours. After clicking the shots of Chota Bheem, we realized this was our 17th tiger of the day (including the cubs) which we have sighted & we were super thrilled as that’s not a small thing in any forest to witness.

Now, the sun was on its down journey & our guide decided to check few of the unvisited spots & took us to an upward hill road turning away from the main road. I was sitting in middle seat & suddenly as our gipsy turned on a tree aligned canopy road I saw a female tigress standing right on the turn looking strait at us at the same time the driver also braked the vehicle & asked me, “sir, gadi aage lu kya so photo achha aayega” & started moving ahead & I was whispering to him (rather it was a muffled shout) abbe, aur kaha aage lega yahi ruk ( don’t take the gipsy ahead, stand where ever we are) yet is insisted to take ahead & I have to grab him by his shoulder & make him stop! And then I realized he couldn’t see the tigress standing ahead on the turning road as his view was blocked by the tree on his side but he was pointing towards two more tigers sitting along side the road on his side while the guide was pointing towards the fourth tiger! This was a family of a tigress named Darhah with three near grownup tiger cubs & all of them were equally baffled by the sudden encounter with us & were staring at us. Slowly the tigers started their advance towards the river behind us & we too started in reverse gear & in the mean time one more gipsy approached with some foreigners in it. The tourists haven’t seen the tigers behind us & thought we are reversing in general & when I waved at them & asked them to stand where they are, then they realized & to their surprise one by one when four tigers came out of the forest in open, I was more thrilled to see their faces than the tigers, as such sights, is what they will carry to their country with them! The grownup cubs posed in every possible way for us in the river while the tigress preferred to soak herself in the water at some distance!

Our watch reminded us that it was time to get out of the park & then we realized we have spent 14 hours in the forests & have seen 21 tigers in a day & that may be a record, is what our guide said! Well, it may or may not be a record as for me it was one of that day when the luck keeps riding with you & with some patience & logic you can make best of it, is what I have learnt today in the school named, forest! As the tigers are apex animal in Indian forests but more than that they are animals of habit which makes them more vulnerable too in compare to the other animals. The whole day I have been seeing tigers of different age & that has given me a far better sight or say chance to observe the way tigers move in the forests & it was an amazing memorable experience which I will cherish for ever, I think that’s my best take away from the day. With that satisfied feeling (overwhelmed would-be right word) that I left the park but for the day as next two days I saw some more tigers & wonderful sightings & more about them in next sharing!

Sanjay Deshpande 

Sanjeevani Dev.

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