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“The two hardest tests on the spiritual road are the patience to wait for the right moment and the courage not to be disappointed with what we encounter.”
― Paulo Coelho
“Trees that are slow to grow bear the best
fruit.”
― Moliere
"A tiger doesn't lose sleep over the opinion of sheep." — Chinese proverb
“I have observed a tiger a hundred times & along with the excitement, every single time I have learned something new by observing it’… Me
No need to introduce the writer of the first quote as he is probably the most talked about in our genre (Gen X i.e. forty plus in 2026) though many think he is overhyped but ok. Moliere is a French thinker & Chinese proverbs themselves are a book when depth is the aspect & then my own outcome of these people & the experience I had recently! Yes, it’s in tadoba & about tiger but then of late for me forest is lot more than clicking photos of tigers (well, it is indeed important aspect in some way) but it’s about studying the way this animal is adopting with changing circumstances & trust me, it has helped me a lot to adopt myself in right way, in the concrete jungle of ours! And then this was peak monsoon trip though this year rains have been very less in Tadoba region, the day we entered in tadoba rains started & didn’t stop till we left & frankly I don’t like rains in forest, yet they are very much important for the forests is a fact! We have chosen Madnapur gate, especially for Junabai & her cubs in Madnapur range & with the kind of rains I knew the chances are pretty less yet when in forest, just keep fingers crossed (read as patience). And we were to visit Keslaghat gate also, which I haven’t visited as well, forest in monsoons look totally different in Tadoba! As well there was training also of buffer guides about which I have already shared. The day we entered in tadoba it was warm-sunny & on first safari in morning, our guide said, “sir, is saal monsoon safari ki jagaha summer safari jaisa lag raha hai” i.e. sir, this year’s monsoon safaris are giving feel of summer safaris, such is the less rainfall. And the rain god must have heard his words, from the very noon, the typical tadoba rains started & it was pouring till we left tadoba! If they washed away our chances of Junabai & cubs, yet they gave us some wonderful landscapes of tadoba & yes, the patience lesson!
Junabai is a veteran tigress of buffers of madanapur which is exterior part of Kolara core area & some part of Kolsa also. She is around for nearly a decade & I have already covered her in Super Moms of tadoba & though she is a buffer zone tigress where deer & such prey base is less yet she has very rarely killed cattle, is her speciality. At the same time, she is known to move around humans without bothering them but this time she has four cubs of ten months to manage & feed & it’s a tough job. This is a very vulnerable age of cubs & two of them are male, which means their size is bigger already & to keep all of them in discipline is a tough job for any mom, even a veteran like Junabai! Though on one rain-soaked morning safari we saw Junabai along with her cubs yet when we came to know she has killed a stag spotted deer & kept on a bund near entrance, & alongside of road we were thrilled, thinking she will definitely be getting her cubs here as she can’t drag such big kill for long & cubs are big enough to bring them to kill. So, we entered first at noon safari & waited near kill. Now have a look at this situation, we were on the main road, on the left side of the road, its foliage of shrubs & slope ascends up in the form of a hill. On the right side of the road there is one trail used by villagers & their cattle towards the lake & beyond this trail there is a bund on which kill was laying. We were told that Junabai has killed the stag (few said it’s already been killed by domestic dogs, which I found difficult to believe) in morning by 9 am, & has ate very little & gone to get her cubs at the kill, & has returned & is resting in the thickset on our left-hand side with cubs. The kill seems intact & the family must be hungry & kill was in the open & waiting, so all we thought is, it's just a matter of time for the tigers to come on the kill & start feasting, but I underestimated Junabai!
I forgot, Junabai is a tigress who has lived around humans more than a decade & she won’t take chances with humans especially, when she has four teenage cubs (analogy is same when compared with human kids) to manage. As the lake is frequently inhabited by residents of the village nearby, we also could hear their voices & their cattle’s. It was five pm now & the cattle along with villagers started to get out of the forest very slowly, testing our patience, as now I was sure unless every single of them leaves the area, Junabai won’t come out on the kill. It was six pm & she was in shrubs looking at us & the villagers & their cattle but not coming out. It was now past 6 pm & end of our safari time still no Junabai on kill & I know why she has been so successful in surviving even living along with humans, patience for right timing & this is what she was teaching to her cubs also. Imagine the tigress was hunting entire yesterday as I have seen her running behind a hare (jungle rabbit) showing her desperation for hunger & she has made this kill in the morning & so it’s nearly 30 odd hours with empty stomach & yet here she is, silently waiting till the humans move away from her zone. As Junabai knows, with kill so close to path of humans & their domestic animals, five tigers feasting in open would have created mayhem & her cubs would have got distracted with movement of cattle & their guarding dogs & anything could have gone wrong causing confrontation with humans, means danger for her & cubs, instead she chose the right path i.e. patience! I knew only after darkness fell & we also left, she would come to kill & feed her cubs, though she wasn’t having any issue with tourists in the gypsy but villagers & their animals she didn’t want to take chance with. Next day morning, we came back at 6 am, & as I expected the kill was gone, a lone cub was sitting on the very same place where last evening the kill was laying & its siblings were playing in the grass behind & Junabai was peacefully resting in the shrubs on the same side of road where she was last evening but definitely with full stomach now! Again, the morning ritual of villages with their cattle started going inside the forest from the same trail but now the cubs were well fed & in the grass away from the trail & I saw Junabai looking at my camera lens from the bushes she was sitting (hiding) in! What’s more important, she has avoided the temptation also to attack any cattle which was passing just at paw’s (read as hand’s) distance from her, even on an earlier day when she was hungry! As killing cattle means war with humans, & though around tadoba there are tigers like Cm & Mama who do kill cattle, yet for a mother of four cubs its risk as usually the cubs will also start chasing cattle if they see their mom killing the cattle. But Junabai is getting old & soon she will have to kill cattle for survival as killing a deer or wild boar needs a lot more energy & strength than killing a domestic animal, yet she is wise (and tough enough) to prolong cattle killing for survival! Junabai has given me (once more) the lesson of patience & controlling temptation in the forest & its importance for survival! I love watching movies & in one such named Karate Kid (Jacky Chan one) where his pupil asks him, which is the best fight, on that Jacky replies, the one which you can avoid! Today Junabai has given me the living example of this quote by keeping patience & avoiding a probable fight with humans, this is how tadoba’s tigers also have learned coexistence. We do know, to sight a tiger you need patience but even a tiger has to keep patience if it wants to survive, I have seen living example of it! At the same time, I admired the courage of villagers also, who know a tiger is sitting right in the vicinity of ten feet from where they walk every day but they respect tiger’s privacy & they believe in tiger’s patience & control on temptation! So much to learn from this, and look at us, we Punekar’s who don’t wait to turn the red signal green & jump it endangering our own as well other’s lives! This is why I love forest & tadoba more with every hour spent here!
If this was about patience lessons in the forest then rest safaris was eyeful joy & with tormenting rain accompanying all the time, the forest was at its wildest best! I have never been to keshlaghat gate, which is on other side of Kolara & the forest is green with thick vegetation, something you don’t get to experience much in tadoba habitat. With nonstop rains all the water bodies, streams were flowing full & everywhere the music of water was on background. There is a myth about no tiger sightings during rains & this is the reason many gates were having very less tourist flow. This is something which forest dept must do about as online booking shows full but on gates like Somnath, Pangdi & keshlaghat, there were hardly two or three vehicles actually entering in the park. And if someone directly comes to the gate at such a time that tourists aren't allowed to book the available gypsy, I think with the help of technology we must tackle this issue. As why waste safaris & more importantly can’t the gate take online booking via connectivity with head office, surely it will be a great help for on-gate tourists & empty hands of guides & gypsy driver’s waiting at gates, right? About sightings of tigers in rains, they don’t mind much about rain as hunting doesn’t stop in rains as well territory marking also but only if there is a bug break or gap in rain or else there is no point in making markings in the rains as it gets easily washed away wasting time & energy! So, do mind this aspect while monsoon safaris as well when at kill tiger need water post meal but in rains water bodies are available everywhere so the tiger doesn’t need to come in open for cooling in water after meal, is one more reason of lesser sightings during rains!
At keshlaghat we were accompanied by a young guide Atish & driver Vijay, who were a bit shy at start as they thought we were to see a tiger (as usual) & tiger sighting was a bit low presently (which we knew)! But as we started moving in the forest & they knew we undertook training of guides also then they were enthu & started showing us places like local god (bhibhishan) & traditions followed around. They were thrilled when Vinod (bartakke) asked them to stop at a wildflower plant named Agnishikha, a beautiful flower which has tips of petal red & lighter colour down. This I have only seen in photographs, incidentally there is a postal stamp of this flower & waiting to admire this flower, we saw a pair of spotted owlets, again a reminder, when you stop at any place & remain silent then many hidden things in the forest you can see! Atish & Vijay, were overwhelmed as even without sighting of tiger we have enjoyed the safari so much & they said, sir first time we came across tourists who asked us about our god & wildflowers & trees, this is where we need to train our guides more as a dialogue makes all the difference, I told them this!
On the way back from Keshlghat to Madnapur, the drive is nearly 40 km & one of the best drives as it encircles half of tadoba & full of wildlife activities, especially after sunset! We came across jackals searching for food, jungle cat & a barn owl. This road cuts through a few villages & as usual traffic chaos delays travel time, I think we must get this road bypass these villages maintaining peace for the drivers, wildlife as well the villagers too! Special mention of an Innova driver named Suraj who was very sharp to spot slightest movement of wildlife around in the darkness also & showed us the same by stopping the car!
With rains accompanying us till we left tadoba, I said thanks to Junabai & villagers residing around tadoba for making my trip so much fun even without much of tigers (a rare thing) as I may not have seen many tigers but I was going back rich with lesson named patience, what more tadoba could have gifted me than this…!
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Sanjay Deshpande
Sanjeevani Dev.
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