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“We need the tonic of wildness...At the same time that we are earnest to explore and learn all things, we require that all things be mysterious and unexplorable, that land and sea be indefinitely wild, unsurveyed and unfathomed by us because unfathomable. We can never have enough of nature.”...
Henry
David Thoreau was an American naturalist, essayist, poet, and philosopher &
no wonder his words telling us about need of going in to the wilds (read as
wildlife) is outcome of blending his two characteristics i.e. naturalist &
philosopher. As it’s in the wilderness you realize what you are missing in our
so called developed urban life which we call career or success, (whatever as it
makes no difference actually)! No surprise every time I visit any forest which
is in actual a home to wildlife above such words are my best companion to start
my sharing about what I have experienced & I am happy there are many wise
men like Thoreau to help me to express myself when my words fail me!
The
recent Tadoba trip was no exception rather with ace international photographer
friend Vikram Potdar along, the trip was going to be interesting as we were
going in to forests (I mean specifically for photography & touring) after a
long time, courtesy lockdown for nearly an year & then the destination was
Tadoba where every minute something keeps happening around you, all you have to
do is be patient & get lost in the seemingly dry yellow grey shades around!
And add to it some wonderful characters
including another friend Anirudh Chaoji who is now stationed in Tadoba &
working for branding as well welfare of the people around Tadoba forest which
we call as buffer area & it takes hail of guts to do something as
crazy as this i.e. giving up city life
& comforts & go & live in forests & people over there but that’s
the way to make wildlife survive & thanks to such people for that, the trip
was not just about wildlife but about people also which are very much part of
the forest at Tadoba! Though the trip was planned nearly a month or two earlier
yet when it was time to step out of home again the lockdown threat was looming
on the head mainly in Vidarbha region where Tadoba is located, yet we took
option of driving down for 900 kms & stopping only on small road side
joints away from urban settlement & drove for fifteen hours straight to
& fro from Pune. Fortunately roads are in good condition & the new link
via Jalana, Sindkhedraj, Mehekar, Yeotmal bypass took us directly via Varora to
Moharli i.e. Tadoba entry village gate
in fifteen hours from Pune.
The best part of
being in the forest is, once you are in those greens, yellows & greys too
(for Tadoba) & inhale the air carrying fragrance mixed with aromas of hundreds of trees &
animals & birds, you forget the hours of journey you have put behind &
get rejuvenated for the action ahead & lots of it when Tadoba is the
forest! Same way with eight safaris (and a night
safari also) ahead, we were not tiered at all but eager for the morning &
hit the gate at 6 am in morning. One good thing is the entry checking system is
much stream lined wasting less time of the tourists four identification yet I haven’t
understand one thing why there is so much fuss about change of the name as in
these times when you book safaris months before there are all the chances of
some member not being able to make it for the trip & then instead wasting
the money (Tadoba is no more cheap cost wise) if the other members decide to
add another willing member, it’s not allowed by Tadoba park rules! Guys, please
find out a solution on this aspect as well I came to know that there is no
refund or adjustment of the dates also if you can’t make for the safari even
due to lockdown! Well, if the park management is earning on the vacant slot by
sending gipsy in the place of the tourists who has cancelled their safari, why not refund their
money or offer them another available slot, we want to promote the forest
right, & that’s not going to achieve if we become unpopular by non-tourist
friendly rules, is what I feel! And then these are tough times for all so cancelling
a safari without refund is a big dent of pocket of the most tourists is also a
fact! I hope these words reaches to some concerned authority & some
solution will come out from it!
Well,
the best part of the trip was interactions with people in the forest as through
them only we get to know many things about these greens. These are the guides, drivers, forest guards, officers,
dhabawalas, resort boys & yes friends like anirudh also. We as a tourist
visits once or twice at the most to one forest but these people are living year
long here & for years & they have treasure of stories about the
forests, animals, birds & people also! Only by listening to them ( I am bad
at it though) you truly starts knowing the forest & then you can
see many things ahead of you which earlier you wouldn’t have noticed & same
is about hearing as well smelling senses also in the forest! On such rides our
guide Mangam who was a native from nearby Agarzari village (most of the guides
& gypsy drivers are from villages around the forest) was telling his
tribe’s worshipping the forest. Their main god is Bada Dev resides on Mahua
tree making it sacred & needless to say the tiger is also their god! Then
one of the guides told a wonderful story about famous male tiger nicknamed
Baghdoh (sorry forest frds, difficult for me to remember a tiger by some
number) helped healing another tigress named Sonam who got injured in a fight
with a sloth bear. Incidentally Baghdoh happens to be father of Sonam tigress
& he killed a big domestic cattle bull as Sonam has got seriously wounded
on her head where she can’t lick the wound & neither can hunt. In such
cases (injuries) death of such injured tiger is the only outcome as when you
are a tiger then nobody comes to your help when you are in a problem, that’s
curse of being a tiger! But nature is wonderfully strange & not nobody but
another tiger came for help of Sonam & licked her wound to help it heal
& feed her by hunting for her! I don’t know whether this is true of false but
it indeed is amazing to listen such stories of forests!
It’s
through such sharing I came to know one wonderful thing about Tadoba that the
buffer which is spread over some 1100 sq kilometres accommodates nearly 75
villages with one fifty lakh (1,50,000) human settlement in it & over
hundred tigers roaming freely among them & yet since 2012 there is not a
single poaching case of tiger here (there are tiger deaths due to accident or
manual interference i.e. electric shock due to fence or live wire types). At the
same time every year there are nearly twenty plus human deaths due to tiger
attack, yet no human openly kills a tiger, amazing isn’t it? As this is co-existence of the man animal at its best &
let me tell you that are not easy to achieve neither it has been achieved over
night. Years of sweat & blood & man hours from forest dept, NGOs’ as
well local villagers has made this possible & that’s why while all around
the world wildlife is in danger, it’s in Tadoba, numbers of the tigers is
increasing & that’s sign of a healthy wildlife! Though this is beginning,
as the population keeps increasing of both humans as well of the tigers (read
as wildlife) the challenges also will increase & we must be ready for that!
As few years back villagers going out in open for nature’s call (toilet) was a
major problem all around Tadoba forest causing hygienic issues as well that’s
the time when tiger or leopard used to attack on such villagers. Now with
toilet blocks in most homes both the issues has been reduced a lot though water
as well treating of the biomass (human excreta) is still a problem making few villagers
go in open for toilet, Mudholi village is one such! We need to find solutions
on the same & the new problem is the wealth has bought packaged goods in
these villages so the by-product is garbage & that’s a big trouble to
nature! We have to make villagers now aware about dry & wet garbage segregation
as well garbage treatment techniques to be taught to them. We can tie up with
dry garbage collectors from the nearby cities & take it away at the same
time.
At
the same time there are now gas stoves in many homes, again an important aspect
for man animal conflict as the villagers (mainly women) now don’t have to go to
collect firewood in the forest & get them-selves exposed to the tiger! Then
one most important aspect (on which I will be assisting forest dept) is skill
development among the local youths. We will have to train them on civil works
like plumbing/ electric repairs, masonry, solar equipments maintenance &
yes waste management as then they won’t be dependent on just forest as guides
or gypsy driver for earning but other professions also can help them for their livelihood!
Remember we can’t protect forests by making people living around the forest our
enemies or just by driving them away by taking their lands & using it for
forest.
If we think only the
humans are enemies of the wilderness then the Tadoba faces challenge by none
other than the nature itself. With nearly one fourth of the forest area covered
by the bamboo forest the latest challenge is after every thirty years the
bamboo flowers & then fruiting happens & then the bamboo is dead! When
I mean dead it actually dries & gets uprooted & with temperature
soaring to 45 degrees in summer these dried bamboo patches are like Napalm Bomb,
ready to explode any time! Bamboo if is beauty as well life of Tadoba then with such characteristic
it can be death also for the Tadoba & with major bamboo plantation on
flowering the Tadoba management seeks action plan ahead to work out new plantation
as well avoid the forest fires & for this right from Drone survey to
technical inputs, many fronts each of us can assist the forest dept!
Well,
coming back to the sightings Tadoba always fulfils my (and everybody’s) wish
& this trip was no exception. On the huge grass land with a backdrop of
wooded hills wanted to see a male tiger & Tadoba helped me ticking up my
this item on the wish list! On a morning safari from the said patch of grass we
saw another gypsy ahead with people waving hands towards us, the only meaning
in forest of this is, there is tiger! And it was one-way so that gipsy couldn’t
follow the tiger & like in Western Cow-Boy movies, long ahead on the red
track I saw a tiny dot moving towards us. Soon the tiny dot grew larger &
it took shape of a huge male tiger & I can still feel goose bumps by that
sight! Which I will cherish for long! This is Enchanting Tadoba & with the promise
to visit again & to get enchanted once again, I said adieu to those bamboos
& the red clayed tracks...
On
the link below there are some moments I could capture, do go through &
please share if you also get enchanted with them...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/65629150@N06/albums/72157718447472402
--
Sanjay Deshpande
Sanjeevani Dev.
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