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“In a forest of a hundred thousand trees, no two leaves are
alike. And no two journeys along the same path are alike”… Paulo Coelho.
Well, no need to introduce this name as his one Alchemist has
made him known to all the world & yes to we, the Indians also! Coelho is
one of our times (read as those who are in forty plus league) philosopher
writer & though many doesn’t likes his style yet you can’t ignore the
wisdom he has put in the words through his work & when its philosophy then
how can you keep aside nature & forests which are best forms of the nature!
So are his above words which echoed in my mind when this winter I visited
rather revisited Nagzira forests after many years! And best thing about forest
is whatever time may have passed yet when you enter in those woods & inhale
the air the cool winds brings to you full of fragrance of heavenly nature,
alarm calls of cheetals & chirping of birds, there you realize nothing has
changed since you visited last & yet with every round you get to know the
forests newly, that’s the magic forests brings to you & Nagzira wasn’t
exception! All that has changed is there are few more (just one actually) small
dhabas serving local food & few homes has been added which are home stays also
to my delight! And mobile network was still a problem which now even it is in
Pune also! At gate of Nagzira waiting for us was one insane person (read as
devoted to wild life) with his wife & he is none other than Mr. Kiran
Purandare, an authority on Ngazira forests who brought this place on the map of
many citylite’s i.e. "Sakha Nagzira"! Some ten years back Kiran sir
stayed more than a year in Nagzira forests & studied every inch of this
forests & pen down all his 465 days stay, making the book an invaluable
asset regarding flora & fauna! More than that people realized there are a
lot more than tigers here & that is leopards & wild dogs & sloth
bears! Those who are regular forest (read is Tiger Parks) visitors will know
how difficult sighting of these three species is than tiger yet tiger remains
center point of attraction! As neither the leopards nor the sloth bears or wild
dogs have any fix territory & earlier two are nocturnal animals i.e. move
or hunt at nights so their sightings are more rare. But here in Ngazira all
these three species are found abundant (indeed you still need lady luck to
shine) because of hilly terrain, good water supply & mixed dense forest
which is green for most part of the year! And Kiran sir has given up Pune
city’s concrete jungle life & settled at Nagzira, a brave decision which
not many can afford to take! Now he is documenting more wild life at Nagzira
& surrounding & helping forest dept in conservation as well upbringing
of nearby villagers.
In one such effort he took us to a small earthen mini-dam which
is on the border rather is the border between Pitizari village & main
forest i.e. core. This small dam is wonderful water source for many wild
animals making them (wild animals) able to fulfill their thirst without coming
in the village for search of water but the dam seldom remains full even with
good rains is the problem. And that’s because the stored water gets seep/drain
away below the base of the dam & he was requesting someone to look in it as
if this dam remains full in summer then many man- animal conflicts can be
saved. I think such issues the forest dept must be authorized along with proper
infrastructure to deal by themselves instead going in to Red Tapezium of which
dept’s job is it i.e. Irrigation or Revenue types! As in the process seasons
came & go & the dam remains empty in summer & friction between
animals & men living around the forests keeps increasing & we all know
the outcome of it!
Well, after discussing such issues with Kiran sir we headed
inside Nagzira & this time we were to stay in the interior of the forest
besides a beautiful lake in forest dept’s accommodation & that’s main
attraction of this trip for me! As inside forest there you see or feel or live
the wilderness in totality as after evening safari post your dinner, its just
8pm something which in city is your home coming time & here that’s end of
the day. The darkness settles around you & there you understand what pitch
black darkness means! You can see star-lit sky up above but down on ground
below the canopy of the trees you can’t see even you own stretched hand &
there you know what kind of life it must be for many who lives in that darkness
for years, yes I am referring to forest dept people, patrolling guards &
villagers or say farmers or even forest labors too! This darkness tells you to
see the forest in night by your other senses like smell & hear as eyes are
useless. Though after some time (it means months & years) even human eyes
gets used to darkness but we are no match for eyes of a tiger or a leopard in
night is a fact which makes you feel so vulnerable that you don’t know its
watching you but you can’t see those watching eyes! And especially the
city people like us get literally blind in the night at place like Nilay stay
i.e. forest rest house in Nagzira but then that’s fun isn’t it? We pay
thousands of rupees to visit Disneyland’s Theme parks & get scared by the
roller-coaster rides there but we ignore such equally exiting experiences which
are right in our backyard! This is why one should visit places like Nagzira but the
hitch is the stays inside most of the forests are going to be banned by Hon SC
or some govt dept’s order & soon it will be just left to our imagination
how the night with the forests are! Yet we can have night safaris in the
buffers (forests outside of main park) of many tiger parks now which does
makes us able to explore the night life in darkness of forests & believe me
it gets nature on our platter in all together different way, something one has
to experience can be explained! Again there are many who will say already
tourists (humans) are making lives of animals miserable by their presence in
forests in day time what’s need to bother the poor fellows at night also?
Agreed, but there always can be balance struck between making humans (read as tourists)
& animals on one platform in a controlled manner. We are the biggest
threat to the animals, birds, reptiles, fish & every other living creature
than humans is a fact, so unless we make these species our friend, how we are
going to understand their importance around us & from that angle we need to
know them, see them in every possible way & darkness is one best platform
or say exposure for that! Some moments in the darkness in any
forest & trust me if there is some human part left in the person visiting
forests, then definitely he or she will start loving the nature in totality
more & that’s the outcome we need if we want to conserve or save the nature
(read as forests) which includes us also!
I am lucky to have visited many such nature’s treasures & that’s
why it’s not what I sighted or what images I have clicked matter to me now
(well personal level I like that aspect of forests also i.e. photography) but
more than that it’s the time spent in every hour of the day which has given me
immense joy as well helped me to understand nature as well myself in a better
way!
Coming back to sightings, in winters (well Nagzira was cold)
Central India’s forests may be a bit disappointing on tiger sightings but
the forests are at their best with lots of birds & then luck is always most
important thing in forests. On one such evening the gypsy was taking turns
through wooded path & suddenly a sloth bear was walking ahead of us in
search of food i.e. termites. For nearly thirty minutes we were observing it
from a distance as it’s a shy animal but it was so involved in its food search
that it hardly took any cognizance of our presence. The way a sloth bear search
& digs soft soil for termite is worth seeing & there in forest you
realize hardships of life for every animal irrespective of its size & power
as everything has to be hard earned by sheer physical labor i.e. no machinery
or searching tools like Google maps are there to make your hunting easy! I
think Nagzira is yet unexplored & got shadowed by the other tiger-centric
places nearby & a lot can be done to make the villagers life better by
providing tourist-centric infrastructure here. At the same time nigh safaris in
buffer can be started along with dinner at native resident’s homes as it’s not
just tigers & leopards which makes a forest but the people living around
them are also equally part of the forests & we need to understand their
life (read as problems) also as then only we can save the forests in totality!
Coming back to sightings though Nagzira refrained me from any of
tiger or leopard (well our other group do got to see a leopard) but my next
short trip to Pench MP was tiger treat! Two years back with my family friend
when I have visited Pench in winters, there was no sighting of a tiger in
nearly eight safaris making my friend doubt whether the tiger’s images I post
are downloaded from web sites & this time it’s like raining tigers. Well,
no change of fortune or miracle but nearly with four of the tigresses with
cubs, sightings are bound to increase. This is one aspect I always tell to
people who goes to forests for tiger sighting & nothing wrong in it, the
animal has that magic is a fact! We should take information from the locals
about zones (part of the forests) & tigers or say kind of movements happening
before you plan your visit to any forest, it helps as even after all this
survey luck is an important aspect in any sighting, not just tigers’ as forest
is not some Netflix movie which you can run or pause at your will & that’s
real fun of visiting forests! One thing I noticed in my this trip is park
management, the facilities like toilets at center point in the forest are
immaculate like any five star hotel’s lobby & the entrance gate &
infrastructure for tourists (Nagzira, you can blindly copy it, nothing wrong in
copying good things around & improvising it in our way) as these small
things does matters. I think there should be more openness among the forest
officials while meeting tourists & understanding their issues or
suggestions as well the tourists also needs to understand difficulties the
forest people has to face at such remote places & accommodate or say
support them in every possible way, discipline is one very easy to start with!
The Park Director at Pench Mr. Vikram Sing & his team (including one young
RFO Raju Rajput) were delight to meet & interact especially!
To conclude, the trip was organized by Jungle Belles, run by my
friends Hemangi, Aarti & Anuj, who are taking every effort to meet city
women & this natural heavens (forests), which if on one side is like
rejuvenation of our stressed out EMI-centric life then it’s also making us
aware about our responsibility to support every that person who is part of
making these heavens named forests survives for us!
--
Sanjay
Deshpande
Sanjeevani Dev.
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