“A forest is a living thing like a
human body...each part dependent on all the other parts. A forest needs its
birds, its beaver...all its animals and plants. The forest gives shelter to the
birds, but they repay the debt with the insects they eat, the droppings they
leave, the seeds they carry off to plant elsewhere. The beaver builds dams for
himself, but the dams keep water on the land, and although the beaver cut trees
to use and to eat, their ponds provide water for the trees during the hot, dry
months....Listen, and you can hear the forest breath.” … Louis L'Amour.
Louis Dearborn L'Amour was an American novelist and short story
writer. His books consisted primarily of Western novels; however, he also wrote
historical fiction, science fiction, non-fiction, as well as poetry and
short-story collections. I am fan of Western movies & the dry arid terrain
it portrays & yet it’s the original residents of those plateau i.e. Red
Indians who were very close to forests which is direct form of nature. And that’s
why no western story teller can keep away from nature & L’Amur is also no
exception to this rule. His above quote tells the story of life cycle in forest
in least of words & yes how I love to live them by being in forest!
“We tracked her till here, it was toiling full day safari &
we went through that route at least 5 times & seen her pug marks all along
on the dusty route, could feel her presence around, yet it needed that timing
& luck on our side to capture & then you see a tigress sitting on road
& resting after a tiered long walk! Friends, in forest we all are eager
to see a tiger & I am not exception, but the real
thrill or excitement is in looking for these pug marks on dusty road, alert
ears trying to catch alarm calls of sambhar, langoor, spotted dear even that of
peacock or barking dear & eyes scanning green around for those yellow black
stripes & suddenly while you are chasing the pug marks fresh on the road
ahead, there she is, sitting right on the road, looking straight in your eyes,
telling you, I will show myself only when I feel, that's what a tiger is in the
forest!”
And that’s how the Bandhavgarh magic
unfolds in front of your eyes rather all your senses! This is how my encounter
with tiger in Bandhavgarh was & the trip has started! The first thing you notice in Bandhavgarh is
not the towering massive cliffs of Badhavgarh fort, visible from most part of
the park but very existence of tigers & lots of them. You see pug marks,
fresh on the thick dust over tire marks of gypsy’s, you can hear alarm calls of
all the animals mentioned above & of birds like peacock too, its fall
winter & ground is covered with teak wood’s fallen leafs & you can hear
silent paws walking on them & the crackling sounds of leafs under those
paws, you can inhale stench of kill here & there & the vulture
wandering up in the sky confirms location of the kill & you know yes here
is a forest where tigers roam in abundance! This is what MP tourism boasts off,
Land of Tigers! Though let me warn you yet it takes your lucky day to sight even
a tiger as in my last trip here, two years back in peak summer, it was like raining
tigers all around us. So when I get an invite from my friend sunil yadav, “sir
aap panna aa rahe ho to yah bhi aa jao” ie sir you are coming to Panna which is
very near, then do drop in at Bandhavgarh”, I couldn’t stop myself to decline
the invite. It just like a drunkard passing from a bar & gets dragged
inside by the neon sign display of the bottle, somewhat similar. Many won’t
like the analogy yet a diehard forester can understand what I meant about the
invite from a nearby forest on way from where you are passing by!
Before I start with Bandhavgarh
sharing, one a must to see place from Panna is vulture point; indeed many of
those who visits forest (mostly for tigers) won’t like to waste time in
looking at vultures yet its not about just the vultures but the natures wonder
in making of such places is also worth seeing. It’s a gorge & rocky cliff
in shape of horse shoe deeps down nearly 400 fts & the surface has cracks/ fishers/
faults (in geology language). This has become a perfect breeding place for a
bird which is used to heights as a vulture can fly even a mile high in sky
& at this place it’s safe from every predator as well from human interference.
You can see hundreds of Himalayan griffon vultures along with long billed
vultures nesting & doing all the acrobatics in the sky above this gorge
& you won’t notice how the time flies! It’s unfortunate that the magic big
bird like vulture which is an important link of biodiversity chain in wilds, is
taking its last breath & only in forests like Panna or Bandhavgarh can find
its home. That’s why such forests are so important for not just wild life
lovers for entire Earth’s future!
Coming back to Bandhavgarh, best part
was it was nearly fifty percent less cold than Panna, a boon for me. The drive
from Panna to Bandhavgarh is like mostly through buffer of the forest as it’s
this belt of nearly 200 km which was actually a corridor for wild animals few
decades back. Recently I read that forest or say green cover of our country has
been increased by 1% & that’s great achievement as on one side our
population is ever increasing & naturally we need more land to accommodate
needs of this population. So the forests are the worst hit to give way for land
for human needs & on such background is forest cover has increased that’s
really a welcome news. And MP plays vital role when its forest land as over 75,00sq
km which makes nearly 10% of the forest cover of entire country is in MP. And
in that also 50% is in Umariya, Katni, Mandla, Panna, Seoni districts which
hosts tiger belt ie Kanha, Pench, Bandhavgarh & Panna! May be hardly
a century back all these forests were connected & animals like tigers were
free to roam all around but under the name of development as well human needs
we cut down the corridors & all that of these wonderful forests has been
left is in pockets. Yet while travelling to Panna from Jablapur as well from
Panna to Bandhavgarh & way back Jabalpur I once again realized the way
Forest God has been happy with this belt of MP. Though the roads travel most of
the time through forests its price is being paid by the animals like civet, jackals,
hyenas & many as they don’t get training in wilds how to cross a State High
Way & for this mistake of theirs poor fellows gets victims of road kills. I
saw two jackals, one civet & a languor got killed by some speeding vehicle
in just my two travels between these places, so imagine how many wild animals
must be losing their lives in entire year on these roads, for no fault of
theirs! Why can’t we train our every citizen that while travelling through
forests look out for the animals crossing, thought there are enough sign boards
along these roads making drivers aware about animal crossing & safety but
what we lack is a system which will take notice of offence & punish the
culprit. In a country where nearly over hundred thousand human beings loss
their lives in road accidents, who cares for loss of animal life, is the
saddest part in wild life conservation! We can
think of enough under passes on every road going through forest area & then
fence all along both sides of the roads, this may seems crazy idea but to conserve
wild life we need crazy ideas is a fact!
Bandhavgarh as usual cat & mouse
game about tiger sighting as I agree forest is lot more than tiger yet I must
admit frankly I was keen to see some tigers & let me tell you this is
something even full day safari cant assure you. Because its a huge forest divided
in three zones, Magdhi, Tala, Khatouli & then there is buffer zone, making
it like you are in tiny dingi in an entire ocean to explore! Well I did take a
full day safari & even after spending strait eleven hours in forest, yet I
saw just two tigers (tigress if specific) that too in last hour of the safari.
But to follow the alarm calls & track the pug marks, nothing bits that
thrill; just like in our child-hood we used to play the hide & seek game,
here its tiger which is hiding (not actually) & you are supposed to locate
it by all these signs! Interestingly while we were waiting at a water hole
where a male female tiger couple has been seen earlier I could click a barking
dear clearly which was bonus as its very very shy dear to capture clear. It took
almost twenty minutes to come to water hole & actually drink water, so must
scared it was & shy of our presence, though we have kept absolute silence
& enough distance from the water hole. But real drama happened later as we
were so engrossed in looking at barking dears cautious moves that we forgot how
much time has been passed & it was well past 4.30 pm, which is general time
of tiger’s movements. So we decided to go down the road where water hole was
situated & as we left behind the water hole which was on a turn we saw
fresh pug marks of a tigress down the road & even signs of her sitting on
the road. We
have just missed her, this is what forest is. Agreed it teaches you patience
& lots of it but it teaches you one more thing, in life it’s all about luck
& timing, & this principle is applicable in our normal city life also.
Everything has to be timed perfectly, may it be acknowledging somebody’s
efforts or to reach at school gathering of your son for his performance, all is
about timing!
Just prior to my visit there was
unrest at Bandhavgarh park following some friction between park management, i.e.
forest dept & gypsy drivers along with guides. And all the gypsy drivers
& guides were on strike for nearly four days causing chaos in safaris. I
have been at many tiger parks & this aspect of bonding between forest dept
& gypsy drivers as well guides which actually are link between tourist &
the forests is very vital but unfortunately very few field directors have
understood this relations importance from the angle of forest conservation is a
bitter fact! Agreed there has to be discipline while you move through the
forest but let’s don’t forget the hefty revenues coming via charges forest dept
is charging per safari & then after paying such charges tourists does
demands tiger sighting which is a constant pressure on the gypsy driver &
the guide! We need to balance both things i.e. park discipline & desire of
the tourists. This can be achieved by regular dialogue between senior park
management & guides, which many a times doesn’t happens due to ego of
senior officers (is what guides thinks) resulting clashes of this type which isn’t
in interest of tourists in the end!
As I
mentioned earlier while forest cover all over India has increased unfortunately
Maharashtra & especially our Pune district is following opposite trend.
Tree/ Forest cover has been decreased by nearly 26 sq kms in only Pune district
in last one year & this is very dangerous sign as agreed we may be having
most Industries, IT parks, Real Estate growth & Smart City tag too, but
high time at what cost we are achieving all this development! No one denies importance of growth but
when I look at miles & miles spread forests between Bandhavgarh to Panna
& compare the same with our baron lands which are mostly covered with
slums, our polluted rivers & dry hills, I wonder where we are heading under
the name of growth? Whose
job is it to plant few big trees if we are building few apartments & see
those trees are growing too? It’s my job, this is why one should take out some
time & visit forests like Banadhavgarh as this realization about my
responsibility towards forests is what I get back along. And yes I get along patience
& lots of it too as to cut a tree need few minutes but to plant one &
make it survive needs lots of patience & efforts as well dedication, same
which is needed to sight a tiger in the forest & then luck does follows is
what I have experienced, as nature always rewards you when you try to be with
it!
Before I conclude, was able to see moon’s eclipse
at Bandhavgarh & let me share nothing better than to walk under moon lit
sky on full moon day on the roads around forest, as some experiences you have
to just live by yourself than trying to explain them, is all I can say & I
am lucky being able to live them!
--
Sanjay
Deshpande
Sanjeevani Dev.
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