“There are infinite shades of grey. Writing often appears so black and white” … Rebecca Solnit.
Well, Rebecca, who is an American writer & activist these words may make you think the sharing seems to be about some thinker’s deep philosophy but no, it’s about Tadoba (Not again, many must be saying) & the reason I used this particular quote is entry gates of Tadoba! If you are confused then, the quote is about shades of colour grey & shade is concentration of the colour, so there can be dark grey & light grey & many options in between, same way Tadoba has nearly 22 gates if not infinite & each gate is like some shade of tadoba, showing you the forest differently, is my analogy! It's February & I am fortunate to visit tadoba in this particular month which has become a ritual now (that way visiting tadoba itself has become one) but this period of year is more special! February, by me, is the best month to visit Tadoba as tiger sightings may be a bit less (though I have returned from Tadoba without sighting even in May also) but the forest is like a bridge connecting two different seasons, winter & summer. The grass is all shades of green, yellow & black & if mornings are typically misty the noon’s are hot & evening brings cool breeze! The tigers perfectly get camouflaged in this grass & they love it as this season suits their hunting best. Even with binocs, a tiger hiding in the grass is difficult to sight, no wonder Gaur, Deer & Wild Boars are caught off-guard & there are kills, meant sightings! The grass just has started thinning & drying yet its average height is three to four feet, which easily hides even a big male tiger, unless it comes out of it!
I am not a photographer by professional terms but one need not have to be as every frame is like a dream unfolding in front of you, sometimes it's best to keep camera aside & watch the wilderness with naked eyes, images get imprinted forever on the hard disk of the brain. I just thank God for making me able to witness these shades of life where somebody's death is somebody's life! Wild life has everything in it, duty, care, compassion, aggression, fitness, alertness but unlike humans it doesn’t have any place for things like cruelty, cheating, sorrow, or bad luck; all it has is survival & celebrate every day with a prize as your life!
And speaking about shades, this tadoba trip was unique (read as more unique) because I got to circle the entire tadoba forest, just the way people circle earth (Prithvi pradakshina)! To make you understand tadoba geography, it has two main entry roads, one is from Chandrapur side you can call eastern side & another is from Chimur, western side. Moharli village is on Chandrapur side known as mohrali gate & Kolara village is on Chimur side, known as Kolara gate. These two are gates of core & then there is on northern side Kolsa i.e. Zari & pangdi gates & on southern side Khutwanda gate. So, in total there are four sides to enter the core forest of tadoba with five gates. And eventually outside of this core part of the forest there is a vast expanse of buffer where there are nearly 17 gates, so in total 23 gates are there for the wildlife lovers to explore colours of tadoba! Each of these gates takes you to a different part of the forest & you feel like you are watching a kaleidoscope as each forest is different, with its flora & fauna as well the terrain & it keeps changing as per the season! This time I started from Kolara gate, went to Moharili gate which is 180 degrees opposite & then again travelled to kolara, in the process visiting all the gates & circling entire tadoba, a wonderful experience of seeing all shades of tadoba ion one day! Though I didn’t go inside, buffers, core, gate & are created by humans while nature doesn’t know or define any such thing & you can witness the forest shades changing along the road encircling the region! At the same time the people, the plus & minus for wildlife, all these things you can experience in such a journey, which I did!
The road which I travelled has been in great shape & this is the reason it’s a death trap for wild animals. Its Chandrapur-Mul road (a patch of some 60 km) claims maximum road kills as because of good quality of the road speed of vehicles is high & it cuts the forest directly, with no place to cross for wild animals making them exposed to the fast-moving traffic! Indeed, there are signages easily readable all along the road to keep slow & care for wild animals but we all know how much we care for such signages! At the same time this is dangerous even for slow going two-wheeler riders also as an animal like wild boar or Indian gaur if it collides with two-wheeler then chance of injury to the two-wheeler rider is more! The need is, at least clear the shrubs & bushes along the road for 20 ft on both sides so at least the wild animals as well vehicle drivers can see what’s coming on the road & will have some time to apply breaks, provided the drivers are driving at moderate speed! The real solution is net fencing all along the road where it traverses through fields & forest patches & make under passes for wild animals at regular intervals! My own car just got saved as we were travelling at low speed as suddenly a wild boar came running in-front of our car, making our driver skip his heart beat! This part is on the Kolsa side of tadoba & a large number of wild animals often are needed to cross this road because of their basic needs like water, food & shelter & high time we must do something to protect their lives. Even a railway track also passes through this region which already has claimed seven to eight tiger’s lives & equal numbers of sloth bears & leopards, again nothing is being done by railway dept to avoid these deaths! On one side Hon Courts’ (High Court & Supreme Court) are keen on protecting wildlife & asking forest dept to take actions on even the slightest disturbance by tourists but Hon Court, why can’t you take these serious issues where not just disturbance but Tiger’s lives are at threat, is my sincere question to you!
Coming back to the gates, my intention was to visit a new gate near Chimur i.e. Shedegaon which is not part of Tadoba project tiger in technical terms but is of great importance as its one side is adjoining to Navegaon buffer of tadoba & another goes to Umred Karhandala & is a corridor for migration of Tigers in MP. This forest comes under territorial forest but as I said such terminologies are for humans while the wild animals know only one thing, safe way of their survival! Now with a gate there will be tourism in these parts of forest as well the locals will be more careful to keep an eye on the wildlife as that’s how they will earn their livelihood at the same time wild animals will also have a secure path for their transition! With this gate, now the tally must have gone above 22 figure mark but then as I said, it’s just one more shade of Tadoba, so enjoy it to the fullest.
Oh, yes, one good thing, for years the entry road to Mohrali gate was aligned with garbage & human excreta & I have written about it many a times but in this trip, I found no garbage or any foul smelling objects & the road was clean & fresh air, this is big achievement, & congrats to forest dept as well Moharli villagers as cleanliness around villages & forest road is one big support for health of wildlife! On the journey around Tadoba I witnessed people working in their farms, people walking on roads, people grazing their cattle, people at rivers & lakes for their thirst, people going to temple, school-kids walking to their school & all this with vast forest on their backdrop & I know a tiger is also nearby-by in that forest, silently watching these people & yet both the humans & the tiger are at their ease! This is coexistence at its best at Tadoba & this is why I get drawn towards these forests again & again, adios with this satisfied feeling of being part of that coexistence!
Gates of Tadoba Forests!
Moharli, Khutwanda, Kolara, Zari, Pangdi.. Core
Mamla, Agarzari, Dewada, Junona, Adegaon, Zari, Pangadi, Keshlaghar, Somnath, Shirkheda, Belara, Madnapur, Kolara, Alizanza, Navegoan, Shedgaon.
You can watch some coexistence moments at the link below also…
https://www.flickr.com/photos/
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Sanjay Deshpande
Sanjeevani Dev.
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