“Tigers, except when wounded or when man-eaters, are on the
whole very good-tempered...Occasionally a tiger will object to too close an
approach to its cubs or to a kill that it is guarding. The objection invariably
takes the form of growling, and if this does not prove effective then it is
followed by short rushes accompanied by terrifying roars. If these warnings are
disregarded, the blame for any injury inflicted rests entirely with the
intruder"… Jim Corbet
No need to introduce the author as the name though an Englishman
but so much merged with wild life lover in India that we named our first
project tiger by his name! And these are the very first words I have read about
the tiger (though in Marathi) when I was some ten years old & had not seen
a tiger even in a zoo’ but the words made me curious since then about the
tiger. And later on when I started seeing them in forest I started
realizing that if I like the tigers then I should like the forests first as it’s
there where the tiger can be seen at its best! Agreed tiger is one of the best
creatures to see in forest though there are competitors for the honor, for e.g.
I myself will rate equal to a full grown Barsingha (swamp dear) flaunting its
horns & walking with head high in the grass lands of kanha, yet tiger
remains brand ambassador of the Indian forests & a major attraction to
visit the same. But very few knows a little about the
tiger nor have observed its pattern of living or moving around in its kingdom,
all we are happy is to get just a sight of it, click the snaps in whatever way
we can & share it on FB, that’s all. Here many will say it’s already so
difficult to even have one glimpse of the animal then how we can observe a tiger
to know more about it? Well what I meant is there is difference in seeing
a tiger & observing it; we observe a tiger whenever we get a chance to see
one & that’s a difference in common tourist & a true wild lifer.
Coming back to the topic of bandhavgarh, best known as “Land of
Tigers’, it was on my agenda but somehow couldn’t make in last few years. Two reasons, from Pune i.e. where I live its bit difficult to travel as even by
flight which one has to take from Mumbai, it’s a day long journey & my last
experience of the place wasn’t much nice. We have to left the tour half way as
park was closed due to death of a tigress, which forest dept claimed that
because of tourist vehicles while the guides & gypsy drivers claimed its
due to a forest vehicles itself! In that dispute most the park was closed for
tourists & we have to curtail our trip. This time I inquired about all the
park situation & this is something I will like to share with those who goes
to forest for any particular purpose i.e. for tiger sighting or for bird
watching or for a peculiar specie say some migratory birds or expect to see
some unique animals. You must inquire about particulars forests flora &
fauna as well weather over there before you leave for the destination. For e.g. I will share a classic
example I witnessed, at our bandhavgarh trip we were staying at a resort &
some other guests whom we came across at
dinner, shared their annoyance for not being able to see the tiger at all when
they have been told that no one gets without seeing a tiger from bandhavgarh!
And they were surprised to know that we were able to see at least six tigers on
day of forest itself & that was their third day without tiger! Here I asked
which zone they have gone to. As in Bandhavgarh, the entire forest has been divided
in three zones, Tala, Magdhi, Khataoli & there is a buffer zone too. The
Tala zone in fact is a premium zone as it has more biodiversity & in past
more tiger sightings. They have booked all Tala zones but unfortunately this
summer somehow due to a male tigers dominance who killed few cubs & a
tigress in the Tala zone & has drove out two more male tigers suddenly
there want any tiger sighting in tala zone. And one more female tigress with
cub has migrated to Magdhi i.e. adjoin zone, so rather the sighting was more at
magdhi & khatouli zones. That’s the reason the poor fellows even being in for
three days in best tiger sighting season, couldn’t have a single sighting of
the tiger!
I have inquired before starting for Bandhavgarh & though I
myself also have first asked for Tala zones booking but after speaking to personnel
over there changed myself to magdhi zones & other one. And that proved so
right that this trip became like a tiger den trip! Usually when I come back
from forest approximately 30% of total snaps are of tigers & rests are of
birds, other animals & landscape. This time it was reverse case with 70%
snaps of tigers only & all size & shape! Most importantly I got to see
tigers a lot closer & could focus on their behavior patter a very
interesting thing to do. Agreed by now tigers have been studied a lot than Jim Corbet
days & yet after all tiger is one of the rare species & two things
whatever you have read about the tiger to see it happening in front of you as
well see something new happening, nothing more exciting than that in a forest!
To start with its hot summer in bandhavgarh & by 5.30 am day
light is enough & yes one more thing there is lots of dust, so much that it
surrounds everything including your camera, which has to be considered. Even
while photographing a tigress which is standing close to the road side, the
dust is clear in every frame making it difficult to shoot the clear image! So,
one need to be prepared for such extreme weather & local conditions while
visiting the forests. And while travelling in the forest your driver as well
guide should be smart enough to avoid a path where already a gypsy ahead of you
covering you in dust bath! That way bandhavgarh forest department is doing
great job along with the guides & drivers. Best part was while the car
awaits at gate to enter the forest guard herself (well to my surprise as magdhi
gate there was a lady forest guard story of her will come ahead) used to come
to the gypsy’s in queue for tourists verification instead all the people making
crowd at gate. This practice can be followed by other parks, it does saves time
too & much convenient for the tourists. Another best thing I observed
amongst the gypsy’s is the way they were co-operating to maintain the distance
between the vehicles as well allow every tourist to get a clear sight whenever
there is a tiger around, so instead all blocking each other’s way & making
a mess, a little patience & understanding does help; a lesson kanha &
tadoba guides & drivers should take. The forest patrolling staff also was
more hostile & friendly & instead in punishing mode all the time were
more keen to have every tourist gets a glimpse of the tiger as that’s what they
have come at bandhavgarh! There is no fuss about rules like taking a U turn or reversing
vehicle on same track as such things hardly matters, what’s most important is
self discipline; lets understand all park managements that extreme harsh rules
to monitor the traffic won’t work but to take guides & gypsy drivers in
confidence & let themselves manage the decorum of the forest is what works
& bandhavgarh is a classic example for the same!
So finally we entered, May sun is already up in
sky & our gypsy rolled through the gate of Magdhi zone on dusty ride. Soon
the mercury is rising as the sun rises & the forest started displaying its
colors with all shades of yellow & on its background moves the tiger! It’s
not nearly 22 tigers in seven safaris which has made the trip special, it’s the
entire landscape & the excitement of chasing it by pug marks in dust &
with alarm calls is what makes the sighting a real fun, that's the way you get to know jungle as you learn to see many
details in forest as well listen finest of the sounds like difference in calls
of jungle fowl & even identify the essence also as if there is a kill
around your nose starts picking its scent! Most importantly you learn to become
patient as in jungle you are in no control not even that of a tiny orange
throated thrush also, leave apart the tiger! All one can do is get immersed in
the surrounding & get rejuvenated with the nature; that's the best way to
be in the jungle! We saw a tigress not only marking her territory but in tussle
with her own four years daughter which has been now separated & shoo her
out of her territory! In one of the evening safari within distance of hardly
one kilometer we saw three tigress & last one I will never forget as it
taught me a lesson again that till you don’t get out of forest never
consider safari has ended; in one evening ride at bandhavgarh, when all gypsy's
where happily had sighting of nearly seven tigers, suddenly we saw a tigress
laying low in open field & obviously we stopped! And to my surprise tigress
is unaware of us but fully focused on a male chital grazing some fifty feet
ahead, we realized she is behind the kill & suddenly all cameras are at
alert & in typical Discovery Channel type movement the tigress inched towards the chital which was unaware of its
presence! I have never seen any tiger attempting a kill in so open as there was
not an inch of grass or any cover for her! When she was just about to make
final leap suddenly a languor gave alarm call & chital sprang away! The
tigress gave a frustrated look & walked straight towards us & then in
head on shot I realized her empty stomach, sure she was very very hungry that’s
why she made such desperate attempt which she has nearly succeeded! I was
wondering whether to be happy for escape of chital or be sad for poor tigress
being hungry & will need another effort on empty stomach! Whatever it may
be I have witnessed wonderful display of nature in wilderness!
So many such
moments with tigers I witnessed, the way it moves silently through the yellow
grass & dried forest & get comaflauged rather merged is proper word,
that many a time all you see is a yellow black striped wave silently moving on
the surface of the ocean of same color, is what the effect! One more
interesting thing I witnessed, during a safari I saw a gypsy wit kids in it
& a volunteer with them. Those kids were surely not the usual tourists or
with groups like pugmark or foliage type but poor village kids. I asked to my
guide whether forest dept has arranged them to show the jungle. He said no, there
is one gentleman Nitin Nagare from Mumbai who from his pocket makes all the expense
& arrange to show the jungle to all the village boys in neighborhood, it includes
their food also! Such people are around & I will say they have really
understood the forests & true wild lifer!
Lastly on one
morning ride when we started from the ticketing office, after collecting entry
form a lady forest guard with her one year old baby girl requested that can she
come till the gate which is nearly five kilometer away from booking office. Life of a forest
guard is very hard & specially when u are a lady & have a small kid to
look after! Daughter’s name was Tanvi & Namita , who was a forest guard at
magdhi gate of bandhavgarh forest in MP. Each morning at 5.30 am Namita has to
be at gate to check the vehicles entry, at village tala there is no crèche where
she can keep Tanvi so she carries Tanvi with her at forest gate & the kid
keeps playing alone at forest gate in extreme summer which goes to 43 degrees
& come back with her mom when she finishes her duty! Its women like namita
who makes entire forest dept proud! Wild life is not just tigers but
personalities like Namita too, so let’s think what we can do to make their life
better! Then only I always say we have
earned our forest trip.
One more thing
while visiting any forest place do try to cover in your travel itinerary places
around the forest or nearby like we visited Khajuraho temples which are some
200 km away & if forests are natural wonders then monuments like khajuraho
are man-made wonders. For ages khajuaraho is considered as just sex figures but
that myth, yes there are sculptures covering erotic poses but the entire architecture,
the philosophy of life carved in those temples is sign of how wise &
matured our ancestors where & somewhere in the time river we have lost all
those wisdom & knowledge! About the khjuraho temples will share sometime
later, just wanted to mention that along with forest do try to cover such
places which are equally important in understanding not just forest but entire
life cycle.
After all why I go to forests is something always asked to me
by many & even I also try to analyze it! Though yet to find the perfect
answer but it’s a journey towards understanding nature is all I will say &
this is a journey which is beautiful than merely reaching to the destination;
so go on, find you own path & just follow those pugmarks in the dust!
At link below you can see most of the forest moments I
captured…
https://www.flickr.com/photos/65629150@N06/albums/72157667581330300
Sanjay
Deshpande
Sanjeevani Dev.
https://www.youtube.com/watch? t=1415&v=blgni8HSfDU
Please do visit my blogs to know about our philosophy at Sanjeevani ! (Click the links below)
http://visonoflife.blogspot. in/2015/06/agreement-ho-gaya- rabba-rabba-permanent.html
http://jivnachadrushtikon. blogspot.in/
Social Side of Sanjeevani ! (Click link below)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ 65629150@N06/sets/ 72157627904681345/
For any of your complaints about city, log in at link below
www.punecorporation.org
Think Green, Think Life
Sanjeevani Dev.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?
Please do visit my blogs to know about our philosophy at Sanjeevani ! (Click the links below)
http://visonoflife.blogspot.
http://jivnachadrushtikon.
Social Side of Sanjeevani ! (Click link below)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/
For any of your complaints about city, log in at link below
www.punecorporation.org
Think Green, Think Life