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“The best thing forest has taught me is, being in the right place at the right time”…
Travelling some 1500 plus kilometers from Pune to Bandhavgarh & then to Sanjay Dubri NP in MP, waking up at 4.30 am in morning to facing the cold of Central Indian forests, chasing pug-marks on a dusty & bumpy track, when you see a big male tiger sitting right in the middle of the road & looking curiously at you, you forget all the hardships you have gone through. As well its mid-march & entire forest is blossomed with colorful flowers attracting honey bees' which keeps buzzing around you all the time, you wait for hours at one spot absorbing the heat of summer afternoons’ & finally king of the forest comes out from his comfort zone & started walking along your vehicle, all you can do is, thanks to the God or that power which has made you lucky to witness such sights, that is what forests does to me! And this is not the only take away, right from evening walks to resort in the dusk listening to the music of wilds to getting awestruck by the sight of hundreds of blooming Forest Flames which are painting the horizon red, the list is endless why I keep visiting forests!
Above words which came to me when I started this sharing which is about the forests, that too of Central India (not tadoba, lol) & you must be knowing Bandhavgarh but the other one i.e. Sanjay Dubri National Park is far lesser known, even to the veteran wild lifers. If Bandhavgarh is a dimond then Sanjay Dubri is a pearl for MP forest's Navratna i.e. nine tiger resreves & I have written enough about the earlier one, Bandhavgarh & it’s the same forest where I have sighted 22 tigers (yes, you read it right, 22) in one single day but some days you are luckier is all I will say about it & Bandhavgarh is much more than tigers, its sheer landscape is a subject of separate sharing. It’s the later one, Sanjay Dubri I want to share more about, but first something about Bandhavgarh, quickly! Two things, it’s the new field director there, Dr Anupam Sahay, who at first glance looks like a Bank Executive(of a private bank) & is surprisingly particular in communication as well proactive & knew his job so well, which is a rare case in now a day, may it be a private or a govt organization! He wants tourists to visit the park, & he understands protection of wildlife is also part of his duty, so he is tough & even if he is accessible to everybody that doesn’t mean you can take him for granted! We discussed many things about wildlife & tourism & sure in future you (readers) are going to get more of this place from me! Rare part is, right from tour operators to resort GM’s to guides all were speaking good about FD, again a rare thing especially when you are in a govt service! One more interesting thing which I will share at end part (means there is lot more to read ahead, lol) but before that about another person from Bandhavgarh, Sunil bhai aka Sarpanch(his local friends fondly call him), Sunil Yadav, who a decade back was a young, rash (take it positively) gipsy driver in & around the park but today he is a matured driver cum tour operator & owns a small six rooms home-stay also in Bandhavgarh. I have seen his journey & its people like him who are real change makers or say need of the time, using wildlife tourism as a means of earning he has created a small empire of himself which sustains nearly fifteen families, & that matters a lot. When you look at large migration of people towards Metro cities from these parts of our country which has only forests & farming as well attraction for so called city life style, then you realize importance of people like Sunil who decided to work hard & stay where they have been put by their birth & prosper, that’s what inspires me most about personalities like Sunil bhai!
And this was exactly the point raised by Mr. Amit Dubey, IFS, field director of another jewel in MP Forests’ crown Sanjay Dubri NP, formerly Sanjay NP! And he came all the way to meet us at our resort (few words about the resort at end) a rare gesture from a senior govt officer & this is why MP forests are progressing as proactively the entire system is working for conservation of wildlife! They too have issues, such as skilled manpower, funding, poor infrastructure for the dept & park like SD (sanjay dubri) which are very remote from big cities making commuting difficult so does the prosperity for the locals. What he said or pointed out is very important, that tourists are welcome & but the wealth generated out of this tourism must reach to the grass root level i.e. local people around the forests & not for just a few (tour operators & resort owners), then only it will help in wildlife conservation! Here is where the “promoting local” factor comes into picture, which includes right from home stays to giving jobs to locals in the resorts & this isn't an easy thing! As the tourists which will be spending money needs service by his standards as well ambiance & this is where most home stays lack, so we need to train the home stay operators, show them what tourists from urban areas need. Rather I will advise every home stay seeking (making) family to send their one or two members in any good quality hotel / resort in forests like Tadoba or Bandhavgarh to work for at least six months so they will understand the tourism as a business. Or else I have seen failure of many home stays just because they couldn’t stand to the basic needs of the tourist! Cleanliness & food are the two most important needs of any tourists visiting forests & ready to stay in home stays, here is where forest dept can take lead & using private firms, NGOs’ can strengthen this aspect by which the money from tourism will go to the end user. Yet the importance of the tour operators remains as they are in a way the bridge between wildlife, locals & outer world & if they won’t make money they won’t be interested. Rather I always feel the wildlife tour operators for wildlife ( read as forest dept) are like Insource agents for LIC. The way LIC respects & encourages these agents the more revenue LIC earns, same should be here! Here many people will say wildlife tourism & Insurance are two different things, but let me tell you very frankly, if we want to save wildlife then the locals must prosper financially then only, they will give everything to save the wildlife & for that we must make policies ensuring this outcome!
Coming to SD NP, it is nearly 1700 km from Pune & yet worth travelling that distance because I drove from Pune to SDNP, and from Pench to this place in nearly six hundred plus kilometers there is nothing but forests in between & huge farms of wheat! This belt with these forests & wheat farms takes care of nearly fifty percent of our country’s wheat needs & tigers also. As these patches of forests are corridors which we must conserve by making them new centers of wildlife tourism! SDNP is on the border of Chhattisgarh, UP & MP & is home to some of the cleanest rivers in the country, where you can directly drink water from the rivers or streams as no pollution ailing factors are around, thanks for the distance from urbanization! Though the main attraction of wildlife (unfortunate fact) i.e. Tiger sightings are a bit less here & the reason is because of huge expand & perennial water bodies spread across the park, the tigers are not needed to come in open & the forest is thickly wooded with less patches of open or grasslands. At the same time, there are many villages in & around the park which makes tigers a bit cautious to make movement in daylight. And as the number of tourist vehicles is less the tigers are not yet used to the tourists & prefer to keep inside the cover of forest. Yet, Sanjay Dubri park holds a story which will make every human’s & not just wild lifer’s eyes moist. Few years back, a tigress which was having three cubs got killed due to a railway line passing nearby from SDNP (one more threat) & when forest dept tried to rescue the three little cubs they couldn’t find it at first. Worried, the search began for the cubs & after a few days the most interesting phenomenon surfaced, another tigress which happened to be step sister of the deceased tigress who also was having three cubs of her own, was seen taking care of these three orphan cubs also. This is not heard as tigers are private animals & often a tigress has been known to kill other tigresses’ cubs also & here is a tigress who along with her cubs taking care of others cubs. And it’s not easy to grow six tigers, as she must hunt every day to feed them which she did & that’s why the tigress is now known as The Mausi (Aunt)! For forest dept she is T28 but locals & forest officers in private fondly called her Mausi only & I was lucky to get sight of Mausi in one safari! In the times where humans have forgotten relation, duty or kindness named terminology, an animal like tiger whom we call cruel, is displaying all these aspects of life, interesting! As well, the officer with me was Mr. Babunandan Singh, whose eight years daughter Suhani also accompanied us in the forests as she was on vacation and was staying with him. It’s heartening to see their bonding & shows how difficult duty of a forest officer is, which seems so glamorous from outside from the sightings. And, Babunandan has received the President's Award under his belt when he risked his life to extinguish a forest fire in an enclosure where a tiger has kept, imagine the courage, is all I can say! In stark contrast the ranger was a young man Akash, from a big city like Jabalpur & has to give away luxuries of city life & be in the hardships of wilds for all the year & yet he was cheerful as well welcoming to any advice or suggestion for wildlife conservation! This is forest, as these & many such people hold the hope for wildlife as their duty!
Oh yes, about the MP Tourism’s Parsili (village) resort I must mention, one of the best locations overlooking river Banas & dense forest around, out of the world is the only word to describe; you need not have to see a tiger as first it might be already seeing you here & another all you have to do here is do nothing! Just be here, take long walks (in day time) & connect yourself with the wilderness & for that you have to visit Sanjay Dubri NP!
On the way back, I visited one Shivam Barghiya & Burgat village, Umariya near Bandhavgarh. There was news on the front page a month back which said, a German Shepherd dog saved his owner’s life by fighting a tiger & died in the process! I have read the news & it kept lingering in my mind as for whom I should be sad, for the dog who dared to fight with a tiger knowing it’s going to die or for the tiger who has to attack a human again knowing that's a risk for its life! I went to meet Shivam who told the story as he was an eyewitness. I saluted Bentho the dog, and said sorry to him as it’s because of we the humas forests /habitats are reducing & the tigers are needed to come into our farms & dogs like Bentho have to pay the price of their life, for our wrong deeds! With all such memories & moments & bid adios to Sanjay Dubri with a promise that irrespective of the physical distance between us, it will always be very close to me & will come back again soon!
Here are some moments from the recent trip to Central Indian forests, go ahead get mesmerized, …
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Sanjay Deshpande
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